才注意到他的blog几天前写的。这次换个季节，希望他运气能好点。再嘴贱一句，别挂在杀人峰上了，几率还是很大的。希望他能第一次成功。

网站又有更新， 转——

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October 9, 2013: Summit success on Annapurna Southface

Monday, 14 October 2013 18:46

Since our arrival our teamwork was perfect. We have installed our ABC at 5000 meters. Tenji and Nima always brought us some fresh food up there. The weather war great until October 3, 2013. Then - right at my birthday October 4, 2013 - the weather became bad and we had a reason to go back to our base camp.
Since our arrival our teamwork was perfect. We have installed our ABC at 5000 meters. Tenji and Nima always brought us some fresh food up there. The weather war great until October 3, 2013. Then - right at my birthday October 4, 2013 - the weather became bad and we had a reason to go back to our base camp.

A couple of days later, it was rainy, we went back to ABC. Don followed up later on. He wanted to wait until the weather would get better. It has snowed quite a lot and we decided to wait another day. We …. observed the wall. We wanted to know what was going on in the wall. We all spent together the day. The weather was beautiful at ABC. The sun worked all day long so that the snow could harden.

On October 9, 2013 at 05.30 am we started. Dan Patitucci and Jonah, Don Bowie and I. We moved to the foot of the face. Dan Patitucci and Jonah are responsible for the pictures.

Finally all just fit. The weather was ok, but the wind was quite strong. Don Bowie, my parnter, decided at the Bergschrund not enter the face. He said that it was technically too demanding to climb the face without rope. And this is the basic premise for such a route. From the Bergschrund I climbed alone.

At the first moment it was difficult for me to switch on soloing. But the good conditions helped me to quickly get focussed on the climbing. Once more everything just fit. At 6100 meters we had placed some equipment. The weeks before we had acclimatized ourselves in the face and we had placed rope, tent, cooker and something to eat up there.
I packed the tent and the cooker in my backpack. The rope I left there, since I had a 6mm reep rope with me, which I took with me from the ABC. I left the sleeping bag because of weight reasons together wit gas and food an existing rope and fixed it at a hook.

The ascent to the headwall was relatively easy. From 6600 meters on I had wind and spindrifts. I climb until below the headwall. Here I wanted to build my tent and wait. I had different possibilities: To wait until the wind got less and I could continue to climb or I would descend the day after.

Since I did not find a protected place I started to descend. 100 meters below I found a crevice. It turned out to be a perfect bivouac place and I could place my tent sheltered from wind and spindrifts. Now I ate and drunk a lot. In the meantime the sun had gone. And everything calmed down. This I noticed also the evening before from ABC. And it was again exactly the same. Fast it darkened and it was calm. This was my chance.

I was sure that the following day the wind would turn on again. So this was my only chance to reach the summit during the night.
The headwall was a line of ice and firn. So it would be possible to the way in the night.

Approx. one hour after I reached the bivouac I continued my climbing. During short passages the ice/firn was quite thin and a couple of times I had to climb in the rock. The steepness was surprisingly not really vertical, only a couple of uplifts were vertical. So it was the ideal solo terrain.
As long as I could climb I was extremely efficient. This I had in my mind all the time. The thin air at 7000 meters is not yet death zone. At this height I could move quite easily. Only the cold was a problem.

A couple of hours before at daylight I wanted to photograph the headwall in order to have an overview picture at night. A was hidden by a spindrift. I could only get grasp my ice gear in order not get knocked out of the wall. In this way I lost one of my down glove and my camera was thrown out of the wall. Now I had to climb with my finger gloves. The down glove which was left I wore once at my left hand and then at my right hand - depending on the cold of each hand.

The headwall presented itself shorter that I thought. Difficult to say how many pitches, since I did not use the rope. Instinctively I was at the upper end quite fast. Here I realized for the first time, where I really was and what this would mean. Now I was just a beat against the wind.

Step by step I moved on. I kept telling me "Just fight, just fight". Again and again. When I reached the summit ridge I could hardly believe it. It was night, the sky full of stars and the ridge going down in front of me.

With my altimeter I checked everything very carefully, I followed the ridge and I knew: I was on highest point.

I spent not even 5 minutes up there before I started to descend. I was still full under tension. My goal was to reach the Bergschrund. Then everything would be fine!

Tenji, Don and Dan meet me at the glacier. They had followed me the entire time while I was climbing. Now they came towards me. Tenji had a Coke, bread and an apple for me.

It is simply great. I made it. Everything is over now. From now the others make the decisions. The tension get less.

On October 10, 2013 at 09.30 am we all are back at base camp.

Ueli Steck-----------------------------------------------

过几年仁波切在中文里面就是贬义词了。。。

倒是没把跟商业队爬8ker的算在里面，但是每个人对极高海拔的适应程度都不一样，哪怕是同一个人每一次都不一样，但还是可以先体验下对体力要求稍微低点的，从保守角度出发吧。alps的向导体力好是肯定的，上上下下4ker跟晨练似的，只是alpine和himalayan还是有些不一样

没看中文的，直接去※※※※※※※看的，估计你是偶尔要翻译才去看中文的吧

看了虾仁波切的围脖，“Ueli STECK完成安纳普尔那峰南壁的SOLO......”。  

视频放的是jean troillet在2011年尝试安峰南壁。jean troillet的法语发音是让·特华耶，字幕翻译的有点不靠谱，中文翻译也不够专业，很多术语都不懂。
jean的十座8000米和现在一些靠夏尔巴，路绳和氧气上去的8k们不是一个级别的，最著名的成就是1986年和erhard loretan的珠峰北壁超级沟槽无氧43小时往返速攀，没有路绳，甚至没有结组绳，没有帐篷，当时的最快纪录。此外还在道拉吉里上完成了8K首次阿式冬攀。前不久写珠峰稿子的时候我还和jean联系过。从资历上，jean是ueli的前辈。他还是2003年金冰镐奖评委主席，那时候的ueli还是新秀。
loretan是梅斯纳尔和库库奇卡后第三个完成14座的，也是第二个无氧的。
一个没爬过8k的阿尔卑斯向导爬安峰南壁没什么不靠谱的，说是身经百战不夸张。至少比靠夏尔巴和路绳爬了N个8k的靠谱多了。安峰南壁对后者是想都不用想。
安峰虽然死亡率高，但大多是北侧，雪崩也是多发于那里。南壁爬的人少，死了10来个，占总遇难人数的15%左右，坠落和雪崩/冰崩基本对半分。
本帖最后由 陶瓷虾 于 2013-10-11 04:30 编辑

这几位有好几个是8ker "frist timer to be"，直接去annapurna south face不靠谱

这山真猛，2个月不到，拍到了n次avalanche，推断还肯定有没拍到的。。。 本帖最后由 hichoslew 于 2013-10-11 01:03 编辑

在y0utube上看过些有关Annapurna的攀登视频，发觉 “R**** presents: South Face Annapurna（劳**呈献:安娜普纳峰南坡）”拍的不错，

y0uku上也有， 转过来——

[FLASH]http://player.youku.com/player.php/Type/Folder/Fid/17022319/Ob/1/sid/XMzYwNjU4Njg4/v.swf[/FLASH]

本帖最后由 k0 于 2013-10-10 20:18 编辑

哦， 刚更新不久。

转贴他站里的图——

Camp 1 ,  6100m 本帖最后由 k0 于 2013-10-10 18:49 编辑

没看到27 sep的，倒是昨天多了一个

Don Bowie and I have now spent 6 days on the mountain. At the moment we have rainy weather at BC but from October 6 the forecast should be better and we will go back to the mountain. Everything runs as planned!

去他的网站看了看， 消息只更新到9.27

http://www.uelisteck.ch/news/ueli-s-sms.html#.UlWMN9LimSo
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Still in abc

I reached almost 6000m. Yesterday sept 27. Condition were great. Today its snowing hard. We have to wait and see. Right now we are still in abc at 5000m

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